How power is expressed through the use of dress within the portraits of Elizabeth I during her reign.

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Abstract

This study investigates and interprets the symbolism of dress in terms of power and how Elizabeth I used dress to express themes of power within her portraits. Research and investigations into context were conducted alongside analysis of portraiture and an in-depth look into three case studies. Interviews were also conducted with leading historians to gain opinions and outlooks. This analysis shows that Elizabeth used many different methods including; rich fabrics, large silhouettes, and grounded symbolism to portray different ideas of power from ideas of motherhood and virginity to wealth and strength over other sovereign nations. The dress within her portraits also reflects gender iconography, which changes from masculine when she is trying to assert herself as being as good as a man to feminine once she has established herself. These interpretations cannot be construed as fact as we cannot definitively answer how they were viewed and the affect they had on the public; however, they can be analysed as we see them now, using the historical research and dress history that is available. Further research could look into the effect this new idea had on future monarchs and Queens, and also how the power portrayed within the dress has formed specific opinions of the success of Elizabeth I. I conclude that the main and most effective method used to portray her power was the use of gender iconography. Not only did she use masculine silhouette and symbolism to appear as a man, but she also managed to establish a new idea of power that was linked to more feminine aspects. The Rainbow portrait, in particular, captures the moment the Queen started using feminine iconography to show that a woman can be desired, strong, and all-powerful.